S400/410 - Carbine 12ft/lb models should give .177 : 50-60 shots , .22 : 70-80 shots.  
Carbine FAC, .22 only : 20 shots.
Classic 12ft/lb models, .177 : 70-80 shots, .22 : 90-100 shots.
Classic FAC models, .22 only, 25 shots.
Xtra FAC models, .177 & .22 : 30 shots.
S200 - All models , .22 : 60-70 shots, .177 : 50-60 shots.
Pro-Target - Pro-Target Mk3 - All models, .177 : 60 - 70 shots.
10m - All models, .177 : 250 shots.

Maximum filling pressures - The above shots will only be obtained when the rifle is filled to the maximum filling pressure. Maximum filling are as below :

S300/310 - All models, 180bar for .22 and 190bar for .177 12ft/lb versions, 200bar for FAC models.
S400/410 - Carbine & Classic, 190bar for .22 and .177 12ft/lb versions. 200bar for all FAC models.
S200 - 190bar both calibre's.

Pro-Target - Pro-Target Mk3 - All models : 200 bar.
10m - All models : 200 bar.

WARNING ! Filling any of Air Arms rifles to a higher pressure than stated above, will not increase power. However, It may damage the cylinder beyond further use.
 
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02 Q. When should I refill my rifle?

S300/310 - Your cylinder should be refilled when the pressure drops to around 135-140 bar.
S400/410 - Your cylinder should be refilled when the pressure drops to around 105-110 bar for 12ft/lb versions and 115-120bar for FAC versions.
S200 - 100-110bar.
Pro Target and Tactical Hunter. - Both rifles should be refilled at 100 bar.
10m. - The 10m has a gauge on the front of the cylinder and this should be used as a guide for refill.
NOTE ! - If the cylinder is empty of air, the rifle must be fully cocked before attempting to fill, otherwise air will release through the barrel. Filling from empty can be difficult when using a Hand Pump as, even with the mechanism cocked, 50 bar is required to fully seal the firing valve.

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03 Q. How often should I clean my barrel?

We recommend that you clean your barrel every 100-150 shots.
On the 10 m we recommend every 50 shots to maintain to accuracy.

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04 Q. How often should I and where should I lubricate my rifle?

If the action of the rifle is starting to feel rough or grating then lubrication should be applied. Otherwise the only lubrication that needs to be applied regularly is oiling the barrel after cleaning and wiping the whole rifle over with a oily rag after use particularly if conditions have been wet or damp.
S300/310/400/410. - Use a moly based grease on the loading bolt. Pull the bolt all the way out and apply a smear around the bolt next to the bolt housing and work the bolt in and out to spread. Also grease the contact points on the sears and trigger. Grease can be applied on the cam and indexing post of the S310, remove the side plate with a 2.5mm hexagon key be very careful not to damage the threads in the bolt housing.
All oil and grease should be used very sparingly. Silicone oil should NOT be used under any circumstances as this can cause parts to gum up. Don't allow any lubrication or grease to get onto the striker bushes as these must remain dry.
TX, HC, PE and PS. - A few drops of PTFE based oil can be used on the pivot points of the cocking arm and link and a spray grease can be used inside the trigger chassis.
A small amount of oil can be used on the outside of the compression tube and worked into place. 
NO OIL OR GREASE SHOULD BE USED ON THE INSIDE OF THE COMPRESSION TUBE OR IN FRONT OF THE PISTON SEAL AS THIS WILL CAUSE THE GUN TO DIESEL AN MAY RESULT IN LASTING DAMAGE.
If the rifle has been stripped a cleaned a small amount of moly grease should be smeared on the front bearing being careful not to get any on the front of the piston seal and the compression tube should be clean and dry. The main spring should have a small amount of lithium grease applied 1 - 2 inches from the front guide.
Again wipe over the action with an oily rag after use.
Evolution - A small amount of moly grease can be applied to all contact points on the sears and striker.
A thin multi-purpose oil i.e. 3-in-1 may be used on the breech block shaft and pivot points in the chassis but use sparingly.
All oil and grease should be used very sparingly. Silicone oil should NOT be used under any circumstances as this can cause parts to gum up. Again wipe over the action with an oily rag after use.

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05 Q. What type of lubrication should I use on my rifle?

We use and recommend Napier products to use on the Air Arms range. But, moly based grease and light non-soluble oils can be used.

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06 Q. How often should I have my rifle serviced?

We would recommend that you have your rifle serviced once a year, particularly pcp rifles.

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07 Q. Can I adjust the power of my rifle?

On the spring guns this entails removing the trigger block and removing or adding a washer, this will increase or decrease the power by a few feet per second to allow for a heavier or lighter pellets, no great gain can be achieved this way.
The S400 range of rifles are fitted with a transfer port adjusting screw which if factory set and locked with a security screw so the power can not be tampered with.
The earlier S300 range has a adjustable which can be turned clockwise to decrease or anti-clockwise to increase the power by a few feet per second. Again no great gain can be achieved this way.
IF THE POWER OF A RIFLE IS CHANGED, IT MUST BE CHECKED OVER A CHRONOGRAPH TO MAKE SURE IT IS STILL WITHIN THE LEGAL POWER LIMIT.

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08 Q. Can a S300/400 be upgraded to a S310/410?

No. this is not an economical conversion.
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09 Q. Can my standard power rifle be upgraded to high power?

All of the Air-Arms spring gun range can be upgraded to high power. However we will only send high power parts to registered fire-arms certificated dealers.
The S300/310 range can be upgraded to a point but Air Arms do not carry this work out. We consider the power gain and loss of shots per charge not to be worthwhile, that is why we designed a purpose built high powered model capable of 35-40 ft/lbs and giving 35-40 shots.

On the S400/410 range of rifles the power is slightly lower at between 29-33 ft/lb with the aduster fully open and 7ftlb closed.

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10 Q. What is the effective range of my rifle?
This depends on what rifle and what task.
For hunting and field target shooting all the rifles in the Air Arms range at standard power (12ftlb) will be effective out to 50 yards but it comes down to the ability of the shooter.

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11 Q. What caliber's are available for the Air Arms range?
The Spring guns and the S400/410 are available in .177 (4.5mm) and .22 (5.5mm).
The Evolution and S200T are .177 (4.5mm) only.

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12 Q. Will putting a higher filling pressure into the cylinder increase its performance?

No. The guns are designed to work within a given pressure. On the unregulated guns putting more air in will lower the power because there will be more pressure holding the firing valve shut.

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13 Q. Is it possible to covert the calibre of my rifle?

It is possible to convert the calibre on most models but this is normally a factory conversion as special tools , adhesives and setup procedures are used. On some models such as the S410, the gun is engraved with model and calibre, these parts would also need changing which would make the conversion expensive. Generally, Air Arms as a company would discourage this kind of modification.

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14 Q. Do you fit gas rams to any of the Air Arms range?

No.

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15 Q. How do I de-cock my rifle?

With the pneumatics it is safe to dry fire as long as there is air in the cylinder, failing that hold the bolt back in the cocked position and pull the trigger, then slowly close the bolt.
With the TX range and the HC hold the cocking arm back in the cocked position and take the weight of the spring, then very careful press the safety button and pull the trigger you will now have the whole weight of the spring. Now slowly allow the cocking arm to travel forward, you will have to press the secondary safety button (bear trap) whilst doing this.
The break barrel can be de-cocked by holding the barrel in the cocked position releasing the safety, pulling the trigger whilst taking the weight of the spring and slowly allowing the cocking arm to travel forward.
The Pro-Sport is dangerous to de-cock and this should be avoided if possible. If this can not be avoided this is the procedure.
With the rifle cocked take the weight of the spring on the cocking arm, release the safety and fire the gun. Slowly allow the arm to travel forward slightly until the secondary safety holds the piston. Now take the weight again until it is possible to press the small aluminum button in the pivot block, this releases the secondary safety and allows the arm to travel all the way forward. Again it must be stressed if it is possible to avoided de-cocking, do so. It would be better to load and fire the rifle into the ground.

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16 Q. What size mounts should I use?

This depends entirely on the size of your scope. Seek advice from the provider of your scope.

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17 Q. My rifle is dieseling, what should I do?

If your rifle is dieseling once in a while this maybe due to a small amount of oil getting into the compression chamber when your have cleaned the barrel and is not a problem. But, continuous dieseling will damage the rifle and must be prevented.
Dieseling is caused by the igniting of oil or grease in the compression chamber or the barrel and can damage the piston seal.
If your are using a light or loose pellet this can cause the piston to travel to fast and dieseling will occur. Try using a heavier pellet such as Bisley Magnum or tighter pellet such as Eley Wasp. If this solves the problem consider changing your brand of pellets. Air Arms pellets work well in all of our range.
When cleaning the barrel or carrying out maintenance make sure that no grease or oil get into the compression chamber and that excess oil is removed from the barrel. After a strip down a small amount of dieseling is normal for say 5 - 10 shots.
If your gun continues to diesel have it looked at by Air Arms or a qualified air gun technician.

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18 Q. I've cocked my rifle but it will not fire.

First thing to check is that the rifle is cocked properly pulling the cocking arm or loading bolt all the way back making sure that the trigger unit has been engaged. It can happen that the piston in the spring gun range has engaged the secondary safety and not the trigger unit. This is the most common reported error particularly when the rifle is first purchased.
If the trigger unit has been engaged ,the safety button released and it still will not fire the gun must be examined by an air-gun technician. On no account must the rifle be dismantled as the spring is under considerable pressure and will take specialist tools to release safely.

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19 Q. When I try to fill my cylinder air escapes through the barrel?

Make sure that your rifle is cocked. If it is you may have a leak through the firing valve and the rifle needs inspecting.

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20 Q. The air has just exhausted out of the barrel. Why?

Most likely reason is that you have allowed the pressure in the cylinder to go below the minimum advised. The valve on most pcp models will not hold pressure much below 50bar.

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21 Q. Can I repair my damaged stock?

It does depend on the damage and the finish of the wood. Lacquered stocks when dented or scratched are hard to repair because the lacquer needs to be removed and re-applied, also, if the wood is stained you have to match the finish. Oiled stocks are generally more conducive to repair because the oil finish is easier to match.

Small Dents.

Small dents can be removed with a damp cloth and an iron. Place the damp cloth over he dent and using the tip of the iron gently rub the area over the dent. Keep moving the cloth and rubbing until the dent has lifted.

Small Scratches.

Small scratches can be removed with a fine grade wet and dry paper, 400 and 600 grades.

Cracks and splits can be repaired but this requires specialist knowledge and tools and is best left to the professional.

Napier supply a range of stock refurbishment products that can make refinishing a stock less painful. www.napieruk.com